Let's Talk Grain

From the Vegemite toast we enjoy for breakfast to the beer we share with mates at the pub, grains are a staple in the daily lives of millions of Australians. But how much do we really know about these grains? What impact does grain farming have on our farmers, communities, and the environment? And how can we grow grains in ways that benefit both people and the planet? Below we answer these questions and dig deeper to uncover the story behind our grains.

Grains in Australia

Not surprisingly, grains are an important part of agriculture in Australia. They are grown on an estimated 31 million hectares, or 4 per cent of the continent, in Western Australia, New South Wales, South Australia, Victoria and Queensland. Grains serve a multitude of purposes, far beyond food. They’re essential for producing beverages, livestock feed, biofuels, and various cosmetic products. While Australians predominantly enjoy staples like wheat, oats, and rice, there's also a growing appreciation for lesser-known grains such as rye, barley, corn, triticale, millet, and sorghum. Even ancient grains like spelt, freekeh, emmer, and einkorn are making a delicious comeback, adding variety and nutrition to our diets.

Barley and Wheat

Barley and wheat are at the heart of Australia's grain story. Barley, the second most significant grain crop, sees an annual production of 7 million tonnes. A considerable portion of this barley, 2.5 million tonnes, is dedicated to malting barley for beer and the remainder is used as feedstock for animals. Australia is a global barley heavyweight, ranking as the second-largest exporter.

Wheat, however, takes the crown as the major grain crop. Depending on the harvest, Australia exports a whopping 65-75 per cent of its wheat, with Western Australia leading the charge. Wheat comes in various types, each with unique properties that make them suitable for everything from baking to brewing. Wheat is classified in three ways: hard/soft, spring/winter, and red/white. Hard wheat varieties have a higher protein content and for this reason, are used in industrial baking. Winter wheat and barley flourish in Australia’s mild winters. Planting happens in April-May, grain filling in spring, and harvesting from October to January, depending on the climate. Barley's frost tolerance and longer sowing period allow for more flexible sowing.

Australian farmers cater to both domestic and export markets, each with unique requirements. These requirements are vastly different for malt and raw barley due to distinct styles and methods of brewing across various countries. Grain that does not meet the quality requirements for malting or human food is used as animal stock feed instead.

Industrial Grain Farming in Australia

During the Green Revolution in the 20th century, there was a surge in farming, driven by seed varieties tailored for Australian conditions, mechanisation, and fertilisers. This evolved into what we know today as industrial farming, where crops are seen as products, and producing high quantities is the top priority. Grains are fairly inexpensive in the market, so it makes sense for farmers to focus on producing large amounts to make a profit, especially considering the substantial investment involved in planting crops each year. Unfortunately, this expansion of farming and focus on high yields comes with a cost.

Vast tracts of native vegetation have been destroyed and it is estimated that some 50 per cent of rainforests and 30 per cent of woodlands have been turned into farming and grazing land. Salinisation, acidification, soil erosion and unequal water usage are some of the resulting problems. There has also been an increased loss of seed variety diversity and a dependence on synthetic inputs, like fertilisers. This significantly increases the environmental footprint of grain, with fertiliser use and production accounting for 58 per cent of total emissions of grain farming.

Seed Breeding for Industrial Production

Since the Green Revolution, the number of grain seed varieties grown on farms has significantly decreased, as varieties bred specifically for industrial farming, milling, baking, and brewing have become the norm. Modern wheat varieties have advantages such as resistance to common pests and diseases, suitability for Australian climatic conditions, and easy harvesting in a mechanised farming system. Seed breeders sort through thousands of breeding lines and select promising grain varieties that meet the needs of the large commercial food and beverage industry.

This increased uniformity in seeds has made crops more vulnerable to the effects of industrial farming and climate change. In monocrop farming – which means large, single variety crops – plants compete for the same resources at the same time, needing more inputs for nutrients, pest control, and disease management. This demands a stable environment with a constant supply of resources and cheap energy, which is not always feasible given current climate and energy challenges.

Revisions to industrial farming

In response to these intensifying challenges, cereal researchers and breeders are working on new varieties to suit rapidly changing conditions such as prolonged droughts and emerging diseases. Australian growers have been adopting practices like minimum tillage and crop rotations that have lowered emissions by reducing the use of chemical inputs. Yet these approaches maintain dependence on fossil fuel-based inputs. Regenerative farming offers a holistic alternative, addressing the entire farm ecosystem.

Regenerative Grains

Regenerative agriculture isn’t a one-size-fits-all solution; it adapts to each unique farm ecosystem. This contrasts sharply with the industrial model's standardised approach. One of the fundamental principles of regenerative farming is treating soil as a living system with nematodes, fungi and hyphy networks that connect symbiotically to one another, which leads to healthy soil and high-quality crops. Soil health is considered holistically and from a longer-term perspective beyond the needs of the annual farming cycle. There are some common practices that build soil vitality and deal with cropping challenges by utilising the farm ecosystem, instead of depending on external chemical inputs.

Common Regenerative Practices

In regenerative farming, livestock plays a crucial role in weed management, stubble processing, and field fertilisation. Soil is kept undisturbed and covered with plants to prevent erosion and retain carbon, moisture, and nutrients. Polycropping (planting more than one crop) introduces essential nutrients like nitrogen, while natural predators manage pests. In organic and regenerative cereal farming, no-tillage and direct drilling of seeds, supported by the application of biological fertilisers such as worm liquid and compost extract, are also practised.

Redefining Yield

Healthy, organism-rich soil produces higher-quality crops and reduces the need for chemical inputs, tilling and human-powered intervention, broadening profitability beyond mere high yields. Regenerative farming utilises seed varieties bred for low-chemical input environments, which thrive with biological inputs and offer unique flavour profiles sought after by craft product makers. The same is true for the seed varieties planted. This mimics a more natural ecosystem and encourages experimentation with diverse grain varieties, enhancing resilience and quality.

Perennial Grains

Perennial grains have an important role to play in the future of regenerative farming for a number of reasons. They do not need to be replanted every year and instead stay in the soil for consecutive years, their roots growing comparatively deeper than annual grains. They form a complex root system that locks carbon into the soil and builds soil health and stability, all without the need for frequent watering. In this way, perennial grains also protect topsoil and reduce soil erosion which are big issues in industrial farming.

Successful brewing experiments with perennial grains like Mountain Rye, demonstrate the untapped potential of grains that may not be immediately associated with beer. Similar experiments have been done with Kernza, developed by the Land Institute and grown by 60 farmers across the US. However, it is still early days and a comparatively lower yield and higher price, as well as processing challenges present obstacles in using perennial grains in brewing at this stage.

Social Wellbeing

Social wellbeing is also a core part of the health and resiliency of farm ecosystems in regenerative farming. Beginning with healthy soil, the link extends to healthy plants and animals, the welfare of growers and farming communities, transparency and fair trade across the supply chain, and healthy food for consumers. The holistic approaches in regenerative farming also allow opportunities for collaboration and wider participation in decision-making among producers across the supply chain, as shown by recent experiments.

The journey towards regenerative farming in Australia’s grain industry is not just about sustaining the land but enriching the entire ecosystem—from soil to community. By embracing these holistic practices, we can ensure a resilient and vibrant agricultural future.

Donate to Good Grain to support regenerative grains projects across Australia.